You should immediately stop what you're doing, board a plane to Mexico City, and head on down to the Churreria El Moro and get yourself a cup of Chocolate Espanyol and 4 churros con canela (basically a cup of melted chocolate and churros covered in cinnamon). You will never view dessert (or even breakfast) the same again.
Kimberly, her mom, and I were hanging out in the Historical Center of Mexico City when we were approached by some Mexican students who wanted to interview us for their english class. After some questions from them, we decided to ask them where to go eat. One of the kids (who, judging from his portly size, has eaten a churro or two in his lifetime) first asked us if we wanted Chinese food. After a laugh on our part, and a quick explanation that we were hoping for something more Mexican in nature, he told us about El Moro. I'm glad we didn't go for Chinese.
Short, middle-aged Mexican waitresses, dressed in mint-green outfits straight from the 60's, buzz around this diner-like, 24-hour a day, beehive of activity. All they serve is churros. Solo for 6 pesos. Or with chocolate, coffee, or milk for about 30-40 pesos. I think that's it.
It was packed every time we went there. And in the 10 days I was in Mexico, 5 of which were in Mexico City, I visited El Moro 4 times. Almost 5 times, but I expressed some self restraint, which is strange for me.
So what is a churro? It's fried dough, dropped from a star-shaped extruder straight into hot oil, then removed, sprinkled with sugar and/or cinnamon, and dropped directly in front of you. I preferred mine dipped into hot chocolate.
[Chocolate will be covered in more detail in a later post. I look forward to that one almost as much as this one]
I had a churro once in Portland, and I was not excited. It was cold and kind of soggy. I was not excited about going to the churreria in Mexico City. As often is the case, I was wrong.
The churros at El Moro were hot and crispy on the outside, and warm and soft on the inside. The first time we went, we had 2 each; the next 2 times, we had at least 4 each (the sugar coma I went into after the first 3 makes the experience a little hazy); the last time I think we held ourselves to only 3 each.
And if you really go all that way just for a churro, you should probably stay a little longer and check out some of the Azten and Mayan ruins. We'll cover those things in later posts, but for now we're concentrating on the important stuff: food.
Showing posts with label df. Show all posts
Showing posts with label df. Show all posts
22 July 2008
24 June 2008
What goes up, must come down
This weekend, we joined the college kids for a quick tour of Mexico City (aka DF) and surrounding areas. It was a whirlwind trip, not enough time to really do any of it jusitce, but that's just fine, because... Mom and Peter arrive shortly and we'll have a few days together to explore at a more reasonable pace. Plus, thanks to Oscar, our most fantastic guide, I now can explain a bunch of the things we'll see! Woo hoo!
So, what did we see in this quick tour, well, we started by leaving very early in the morning... mostly we slept on the way down...
We first stopped at the Pyramids of Teotihuacan. These gigantic ruins are from 200bc to 600 ad or so and the largest, Pyramid of the Sun,
is the second largest in the Americas. This was a highly advanced civilization with a system to bring in fresh water and remove sewage from the city. They installed drains throughout the area (something the Europeans didn't figure out for a long time!). These ruins have mostly been reconstructed (the stones are original but had been covered over the years with dirt, trees, etc. There are still large numbers of undiscovered temples... they expect that every hill in this area is actually a temple.
We first stopped at the Pyramids of Teotihuacan. These gigantic ruins are from 200bc to 600 ad or so and the largest, Pyramid of the Sun,
is the second largest in the Americas. This was a highly advanced civilization with a system to bring in fresh water and remove sewage from the city. They installed drains throughout the area (something the Europeans didn't figure out for a long time!). These ruins have mostly been reconstructed (the stones are original but had been covered over the years with dirt, trees, etc. There are still large numbers of undiscovered temples... they expect that every hill in this area is actually a temple. After hiking up
and down the pyramids,
we headed into DF itself. We went right downtown to the zocalo (this word means pedastal and the story goes that one of the rulers (current era) was planning on installing some large statue, but he was deposed and all he had finished was te pedastal. Over time, people began to call the plaza 'zocalo' and now you can find zocalos all over mexico, they're always the main plaza). Anyway, we were dropped off in the most enormous plaza and walked over to Palacio National. No pictures for you as we rushed though it (and without flash, they never turn out) although go to this link to see someone else's great photo. However, the murals by Diego Rivera are amazing and recount the history of Mexico.
and down the pyramids,
we headed into DF itself. We went right downtown to the zocalo (this word means pedastal and the story goes that one of the rulers (current era) was planning on installing some large statue, but he was deposed and all he had finished was te pedastal. Over time, people began to call the plaza 'zocalo' and now you can find zocalos all over mexico, they're always the main plaza). Anyway, we were dropped off in the most enormous plaza and walked over to Palacio National. No pictures for you as we rushed though it (and without flash, they never turn out) although go to this link to see someone else's great photo. However, the murals by Diego Rivera are amazing and recount the history of Mexico.We also went into the cathedral, a fantastic example of the mix of indigenias and catholic faiths (plus crazy recoccoo art). Then we headed to Templo Mayor. This Aztec ruin was discovered in 1978, right below the streets in DF. They were doing electrical work, and someone hit a rock that turned out to be pre-hispanic. The ended up tearing down some buildings to uncover the ruins
(although there is clearly much more as the Spanish built right on top of the Aztec city, however, these are also beautiful historical buildings, and as Oscar put it, 'we're a mix of the two cultures and we need to find a way to preserve both'). The Templo Mayor is celebrating its 30 aniversary (hmmm... just like someone else I know!) and there are great new signs and other information.
(although there is clearly much more as the Spanish built right on top of the Aztec city, however, these are also beautiful historical buildings, and as Oscar put it, 'we're a mix of the two cultures and we need to find a way to preserve both'). The Templo Mayor is celebrating its 30 aniversary (hmmm... just like someone else I know!) and there are great new signs and other information. We then popped in to the Palacio de Bellas Artes home of more beautiful murals, but weren't allowed to go upstairs as we were running out of time. Peter and Mom will have to tolerate my oohing and ahhing in a few weeks. This beautiful palace is art neuvo on the outside and art deco on the inside and weighs so much that the entire building is sinking. This is a huge problem in DF. The city is built on infill (it was originally a lake) and as the residents continue to use a lot of water, the water table is sinking and the buildings are too. Interestingly, the ruins are rising, so the Aztecs are reclaiming the city!
Finally, after all of this, we arrived at the hotel. A fancy 5 star hotel in fact. It was so great that we didn't really want to leave.

After a bite to eat, we ended up having a little slumber party in our room (a six pack of beer and chips and a movie... yes, I know we were in Mexico City, but it was so great to relax on these comfy beds...)

After a bite to eat, we ended up having a little slumber party in our room (a six pack of beer and chips and a movie... yes, I know we were in Mexico City, but it was so great to relax on these comfy beds...)
On Sunday, we went to Xochimilco and took a leisurely boat ride down the floating gardens.


We listened to mariachis

and marimba bands and watched the world go by.

Then we headed to Chapultepec Park and the Museo Nacionale de Antropologia. Here we were very lucky. Our guide, Oscar used to work here and knew the musuem inside and out. We toured several of the civilizations displayed in the museum (there were many more than just the Aztecs, Incas, and Mayas that we learned about in Social Studies in 7th grade!).
More pictures to come on Flickr... but the computer connection today is particularly bad. Hopefully I'll get them up tomorrow.
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