14 July 2007

In the Land of Canals

We made it to Venice. I was worried, sometimes, about going to Venice. I get this way whenever people gush about anything. Will it live up to those crazy expectations? Will it have tarnished or faded?

Venice is a complicated and intense place to visit. It is overwhelmed in parts by massive, crushing crowds. It's confusing, awkward, and expensive.

you can some of the crowd here, as a tour approaches

here, in St Mark's Square (this is actually tame)

and kind of here, if you zoom in along the water (crazyness to the fullest)

But Venice is charming. It's unlike any place I've been. We arrived with the crowds on a train from Parma and stood outside the train station trying to decide which of the many "bus" tickets made sense. We negotiated our way through the crowds and onto our first bus, actually a vaporetto, sort of like a small ferry. And then, we were riding our way down the canals of Venice to our hotel.

Venice is amazing. Our photos won't do it justice, because none can. The water laps at the steps of the first floors of the old mansions. Businesses and hotels have photos inside of the past floods (kinda like in Tillamook, but 3 or 4 feet). There are city maps that plot out the high areas and routes to take to get around during the ever present floods.

But for a city defined by water, Venice is a lot more. On the back alleys (actually alleys, not canals) Venice looks a lot like other old Italian cities. Old buildings, tiny grandmothers, laundry hanging on the line, no tourists. In fact, we liked these areas a lot. We wandered around for most of our 2.5 days and got lost, unlost, and lost again. Luckily I married a compass and he always found our way home.
We were able to see two of the four main sights we set out to. The Peggy Gugenheim museum of modern art and Saint Marks. Saint Marks rates as my favorite big church. Mosaics everyone on the ceiling, with beautiful inlaid floors. We attempted, but will have to visit next time Saint Donato's church in Murano (the island of glass). It's know for having blown glass chandeliers and also the bones of the "dragon" slain by St Donato (possible whale bones...). We also missed the cemetary due to our shopping and the sciopero. Next time.

I can't say I'd recommend Venice to everyone- the crowds are frustrating, the tour groups are enormous, and the prices are high. But Venice is unusual, and if you can summon the patience to elbow your way through people, and avoid the Gucci, Prada, and other fancy stores, Venice is lovely. The last night of our trip we took the vaporetto bus home after dark. Gliding past the mansions, some falling down, others beautifully kept, I saw Venice's magic.

Yet Again

So, we've been in Italy for about 7 weeks now. That's a pretty good long time. On a trip that long, you have to expect some problems, especially in Italy. Maybe a power outage, or some security issues in another European country. Maybe a train strike. Maybe even a gas station strike.

But this is getting ridiculous. (You know what's coming, right?)

As we approached the vaporetto station in Venice (a vaporetto is a boat that is a bus, because in Venice, they don't have cars, or streets, they have canals), we saw this sign:
So, if you have been reading this blog, you kow that sciopero means; strike. And if you look at the date, it is translated as: Friday, 13th of July. HELLOVENEZIA my a$$.

On FRIDAY THE 13TH, the entire local transportation system for Venice (with some exceptions, none of which helped us) shut down for 7 hours in the middle of the day. I have to say that it's a small miracle that Italy is one of the 8 largest economies in the world. With the number of strikes here, I can't believe they get anything done.

Anyways, guess what day we needed to get from our hotel, located on the southern end of Venice, to the train station, located on the northern end. Yup.

So yesterday, on by far the hottest of our three days in Venice, we straped our bags on, heavy with some new acquisitions, and started walked through the narrow alleys and over the canals of Venice. 60 short minutes later, I thought Kimberly was going to pass out as we reached the station.

But we wouldn't let this little setback ruin what was otherwise a great time in Venice. Like true Italians, we just gave a little shrug, and rolled with the flow.

And if you're counting, this is 3 sciopero's that have directly influenced our lives, with a 4th that very much almost did. One strike for every 2 weeks of travel; not a bad ratio.

My Birthday in Italy

While all of you got to celebrate my brithday, and coincidentally the 4th of July, with some nice fireworks, and maybe some burgers and hot dogs over a hot BBQ, I was stuck in this horrible place:
I know, I know, it was rough, but we made it through.

Also, in an earlier post, Miles was kind enough to wish me a happy birthday. Thank you Miles.

However, in her comment, Kimberly stated that I had been making friends with new cats in Italy, behind Miles' back. Well, I provide this picture as proof that she is slandering my name to protect herself:
I'll let him be the final judge.